How to get Waqrapukara

There are destinations that nudge their way onto your bucket list, and then there are those that land with such force they end up at the very top. For me, Waqra Pukará is one of those places. This is the ultimate alternative to the well-trodden paths of Machu Picchu, a site that has been firmly on my radar and is calling my name. I’m desperate to witness what many describe as a location far more dramatic and surreal than its famous counterpart.

Waqra Pukará, which translates from Quechua to “Horned Fortress,” is an archaeological marvel located in Peru. It’s an impossibly remote tower, distinguished by two giant stone “horns” that rise against the sky. The site is perched on a high promontory at an altitude of 4,140 meters (13,583 feet), staring down into the breathtaking Apurímac River Canyon far below, where the river flows at about 3,230 meters (10,600 feet). The sheer scale of the landscape is something I can’t wait to experience firsthand.

The Epic Allure of a Fortress in the Clouds

What truly captures my imagination is how Waqra Pukará seems to be a natural extension of the mountain itself. From a distance, it’s said to blend into the topography, but as you draw closer, the incredible work of its builders is revealed: remnants of ancient walls, man-made terraces, and a single staircase carved through a section of the rock wall. The site is a natural stronghold, and I love the idea that there’s only one way in—unless, of course, you’re a world-class rock climber. It feels less like a ruin and more like a lost sanctuary. I imagine the pervasive sense of calm and wildness up there, with none of the usual hoards of tourists.

Legends and Lore

I’m a sucker for a good story, and the local legends surrounding Waqra Pukará are straight out of a myth. One tale, reminiscent of the Helen of Troy saga, has completely captivated me. It speaks of a forbidden love affair between a common soldier and an Inca general’s daughter. After eloping, they fled to Waqra Pukará, using it as their fortress when the enraged general discovered their hiding place in the nearby community of Sangarará. The soldier, though he lost the ensuing battle, fought with such valor that he was not only allowed to keep his bride but was sent to conquer the Cañari people in modern-day Ecuador. It’s a legendary story, and it’s fascinating to know that Cañari remains a common surname in the Acomayo region, a living link to this epic romance.

A Sacred Pilgrimage Site?

While the love story is incredible, there’s another layer to the mystery that I find just as compelling. Archaeologists suggest that Waqra Pukará was almost certainly not its original name and that its primary purpose was likely ceremonial. Evidence points to its use as a pilgrimage site for centuries, while its role as a fortress may have been limited to a few dramatic weeks. This makes perfect sense; the region lacked major Inca towns to defend. It reminds me of the recent carbon-dating discoveries at Machu Picchu, which pushed its timeline back, proving that there’s always more to learn. I’m dying to stand there and feel the energy of a place that was sacred long before it was a battlefield.

Planning the Dream Expedition

I’ve spent hours poring over maps and guides, planning the perfect, all-out trip. This isn’t a destination to be checked off a list; it’s an experience to be savored.

The Hike: The Aqokunka Trail

My plan is to tackle the hike from the Aqokunka trailhead, located at a staggering 4,500 meters (14,764 feet). The trail itself first climbs to about 4,600 meters (15,092 feet) before making its descent to Waqra Pukará. The round trip is roughly 13 kilometers (8.1 miles). I can just picture it: arriving at the trailhead in the early morning mist to witness a huge herd of wild vicuñas, their elegant forms vanishing into the landscape.

The trail is reportedly well-marked with painted arrows on rocks, making it difficult to get lost. The journey sounds incredible—a moderately steep uphill climb, followed by a gentle downhill stretch, and then a final, steeper descent to the ruins. The return hike, with its challenging uphill sections at such a high altitude, will be tough, but completely worth it. Hiking poles are definitely on my packing list to handle the loose stones near the site.

A pro tip I’ve bookmarked is to arrange for a driver to drop me off at Aqokunka and pick me up at the Santa Lucía trailhead. This turns the trek into a mostly downhill journey, which is an amazing way to do it as a day hike. It’s an itch I need to scratch.

The Basecamp: Slow Travel in Sangarará

Rather than a frantic day trip from Cusco (around 11,152 feet / 3,399 meters), I’m craving a slower, more authentic experience. The plan is to spend a couple of nights in the historic town of Sangarará. This means I can avoid a 4 a.m. start and instead support the local community. I’ve already got my eye on Sara Wasi, a charming one-bedroom house on AirBnb with a full kitchen and modern comforts.

I love the idea of connecting with the town’s rhythm. I’d kick things off by visiting on a Friday, which is market day, to stock up on local fruits and vegetables. On other days, I know fresh bread, eggs, and incredible cheese and yogurt from the local dairies are always available. There’s only one restaurant in town, so being prepared with my own food is part of the adventure.

For getting to the trailhead, I’ll hire a local taxi. I’ve even got the number for a recommended driver, Ermenegildo Guachaca. It’s these specific, local details that I believe transform a trip into a truly memorable journey.

What’s on the Packing List?

• Good hiking shoes: Comfort is key, so I don’t need heavy-duty boots.
• Layers and a rain jacket: The weather is unpredictable, regardless of the season. I’ll be checking with local elders in Sangarará for their thunderstorm predictions—their knowledge beats any online forecast.
• Headache medication: At this altitude, it’s better to be safe than sorry. An altitude headache is not on my itinerary.
• Snacks and water: At least 2 liters of water, plus a filter to refill from streams along the way.
• Toilet paper and a bag: Pack it in, pack it out. Leaving no trace is non-negotiable.

Getting There

The journey itself is part of the adventure. The plan is to take the Expreso El Zorro bus from Cusco’s San Sebastián neighborhood. It’s an authentic, local experience that zigzags through the country for two to three hours before arriving in Sangarará. It’s the perfect way to begin the transition from the bustling city to the serene, wild landscapes that await.

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