The Trains to Machu Picchu

The train ride to Machu Picchu has always been a core part of my travel fantasy—an iconic journey I’m desperate to take. But when it comes to actually booking, it feels like a bit of a minefield. With two companies, PeruRail and IncaRail, offering a dizzying array of options, figuring out which train to choose is a whole project. I’ve been digging into it, and here’s my hit list for how I plan to tackle this epic journey when I finally check it off my bucket list.

First things first, let’s be clear about where the train actually takes you. It doesn’t pull up right to the gates of the legendary llaqta de Machu Picchu (the Quechua term for the archaeological site itself). Instead, the journey ends in Aguas Calientes (altitude: 6,693 ft / 2,040 m), the bustling town thriving in the valley directly below the ruins. From there, it’s a 20-minute shuttle bus ride that zigzags up the mountain to the main entrance. So don’t be fooled by the town’s attempt to rebrand itself as “Machu Picchu Pueblo”—you’re not quite there yet.

And there’s a good reason the train is the star of the show here. The Urubamba River valley is impossibly narrow, with sheer cliffs leaving no room for a proper road. So, unless you’re planning on hiking the famous Inca Trail, the train is your ticket in. A word to the wise: while some people walk the train tracks from Santa Teresa, it’s a bit iffy, and walking from Ollantaytambo (altitude: 9,160 ft / 2,792 m) is a definite no-go for safety. I, for one, won’t be taking that risk.

My plan is to take a van from Cusco through the stunning Sacred Valley and catch the train from Ollantaytambo. While you can board at Poroy (altitude: 11,437 ft / 3,486 m), just outside Cusco, driving to Ollantaytambo is almost always faster. I’d only take the train from Poroy if I were truly craving the full, leisurely rail experience. It’s also crucial to know that if you’re traveling between January and April, it’s an itch you just can’t scratch. During the rainy season, the risk of landslides in a narrow canyon section is too high, so all train services from Cusco are suspended.

Now, let’s not talk around the fact that these tickets can be expensive. The two main companies, PeruRail and IncaRail, are owned by the same foreign entity, effectively functioning as a monopoly. They can, and do, fix prices as high as they want, with dynamic pricing that works just like airline tickets. Honestly, the service between the two is so similar that I’d just pick whichever schedule best fits my itinerary. The real decision is which class of service I’m willing to pay for.

On PeruRail, the main choice is between the Expedition and the pricier Vistadome. The Vistadome attempts to zhuzh up the experience with onboard entertainment, including costumed dances and an alpaca-wear “fashion show.” Frankly, it sounds a bit obnoxious unless you’re on a tight schedule for souvenir shopping. The complimentary snack has also been downgraded from a pre-pandemic soggy sandwich to some packaged cookies, so I’d definitely plan to bring my own snacks and drinks from town.

The ads are all about the Vistadome’s panoramic windows, and that’s the real draw. If you’re traveling during daylight (sunset is around 6:00 PM year-round), the views of Inca archaeological sites like Salapunku and Wiñay Wayna dotting the landscape must be incredible. I’d make sure to book a tour where the guide travels with me on the train to point these places out, as the cheaper companies hire guides who are already waiting in Aguas Calientes. But let’s be real: after a 6:00 AM start to explore Machu Picchu, there’s a high chance I’ll be sleeping on the journey back, which makes the size of the windows completely irrelevant.

So, is the Vistadome worth the extra cost? The only scenario where I see it being worth it is during the rainy season, when the ticket includes a “bimodal” service—a bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. If you’re traveling solo and don’t speak Spanish, it’s a convenient option. If you do speak Spanish, you can easily get a local van back to Cusco for a fraction of the price.

Now, if I were planning an all-out, once-in-a-lifetime trip and staying at one of the Belmond hotels like the Hotel Monasterio, then the legendary Hiram Bingham train is the only way to go. It’s the ultimate in luxury travel; the ticket includes a tour of Machu Picchu and a host of other sumptuous perks.

IncaRail offers a very similar tiered system to compete. The Voyager is their equivalent to the Expedition, The 360 is similar to the Vistadome, The First Class mirrors the Vistadome Observatory, and The Private is their attempt to match the opulence of the Hiram Bingham.

I know I sound critical, but I’m just desperate for my own Peruvian adventure to be perfect. The train journey is a huge part of the magic, and I want to go in with my eyes wide open—ready to soak in the stunning views without being distracted by an onboard fashion show.